was actually once an island - <i>werth</i> translates as river-island. As early as the 11th century, a <i>Kaiserpfalz</i>, or monarch's residence, was found here. Today only ruins remind you of the first and successive buildings, one of which was ordered by Barbarossa in the 12th century. The castle was blown up in 1702. Kaiserswerth, however, now prides itself on its charming atmosphere, created by gaslights, cobbled streets and beautifully restored houses. Take the U 79 to Klemensplatz, walk down the Kaiserswerther Markt, and then turn right into An dem hohen Wall. At the end of this alley you'll find a school, which houses the 'Heimatmuseum', the museum of the town's history. Here you will learn everything about the history, politics and society of Kaiserswerth - Florence Nightingale even once lived here. Go straight on when leaving the school, and you'll pass the church where Theodor Fliedner, the founder of the <i>Diakonissenwerk</i>, an early social welfare organisation, gave his sermons. If you turn left you'll be on the main square called 'Kaiserswerther Markt', where you can have a rest in one of the cafés. The buildings that surround the market are worth a look, too. There is an old customs house, a former weaving mill and what was the main office of the Diakonissenwerk. If you cross the market towards the Rhine and turn left into Dauzenbergstraße you'll see the church St. Suitbertus, situated in the middle of a 17/18th century-square. Leave the square heading towards the Rhine and turn left, and you'll see the remains of the castle. Go for a stroll along the Rhine, or just watch the black freight boats struggle against the river current. If you prefer a romantic stroll through a tree-lined alley, turn in to Barbarossa Wall just across from the Im Ritter pub. If you get tired of this side of the Rhine you can always swap shores - a ferry runs till late. And if you don't feel like walking there are all kinds of restaurants at Kaiserswerth. The Burghof and Im Ritter both offer beer gardens, and if you want to treat yourself to some exquisite food, there's three-star haute cuisine at Im Schiffchen.

Roadtrip: Amsterdam>Dusseldorf>Cologne>Amsterdam