, an area of outstanding natural beauty, and the countryside around here is so spectacular that it would be a shame to leave Sheffield without visiting it. If you have a car with you, or if you can get access to one, this tour is highly recommended. Otherwise, a taxi or bus from the centre of Sheffield will get you along the A57 to the outskirts of the Park. Beginning in the City Centre, take West Street west until it becomes Glossop Road. Follow the road until it ends. Turn right onto Fulwood Road, then right 100 yards later, onto Manchester Road (the A57, signposted Glossop) which will take you out of Sheffield, through Tapton. You will be in countryside within 15 minutes, and as you go on, the landscape becomes wilder and more beautiful. The road (also known as the Snake Pass because the snake is the logo of the Cavendish family of Chatsworth House fame, who originally built and owned the road. Snake Pass has a 60 mph speed limit. Locals will drive faster than this, but if you don't know the road, be careful; there are a number of unexpected and very sharp turns. The Ladybower Inn (on the right hand side of the road, after about 20 minutes) makes a possible first stop if it's close to lunchtime. Take the opportunity to have a walk by the Ladybower Reservoir, and to enjoy the tranquil atmosphere among the hills. Fly fishing is available by arrangement. A series of guides to suggested walks in this area is available from the Ladybower Inn. It wasn't always this peaceful here. Two entire villages were submerged when the reservoirs in this valley were built!

a) Drive straight on in the direction you have been heading, for breathtaking views and (for the more athletic) walks across the open countryside and moors. If you want to walk, follow any of the many footpaths which are signposted from the road, usually close to the small car-parks which crop up on both sides. Walkers are requested to stay on footpaths until they reach a sign marking "Open Countryside". The hospitable Snake Pass Inn, a 15 minutes' drive in this direction, is surrounded by some of the most spectacular countryside in this area, and is an excellent place to recover from even the most strenuous of walks. It is so high up it can only receive Sky TV (which plays quietly in the bar). The photographs in the foyer of the winter of 1986, when snow on this road drifted to head-height, gives some indication of how wild the weather can get here! Accommodation and standard bar food are also available here (the pub has hotel facilities with two AA stars and runs a camping barn for walkers in the summer) and this would make an extremely relaxing break if you have time to stay overnight. b): The other option after Ladybower is to turn left, taking the A6013 across the dam. This leads through Bamford, a small farming village. At the end of this road, turn left to Hathersage, a pretty village with tea shops and pubs, which has two remarkable connections. Charlotte Bronte visited in 1845, staying in the vicarage of St Michael's and All Angels Church while visiting her schoolfriend Ellen Nussey. She based Thornfield Hall in <i>Jane Eyre</i> on North Lees Hall, and the surrounding countryside also figures in the book. Further information on the link is available in the church. Hathersage is also said to have links to the legendary Robin Hood of Nottingham, whose companion, Little John, is said to be buried in St Michael's churchyard. His Grave is signposted. The church itself, which dates from 1281, is extraordinarily beautiful. A 14th century baptismal font is on display and the intricate stained glass is also well worth seeing. To reach it, continue in the direction in which you approached the village and turn left into School Lane. Take the first left, up the very steep Church Bank and follow the road round to the car park. Afterwards, the outstanding Scotsman's Pack is an excellent place to eat (or even to stay). A stone circle and a fort are also located just outside Hathersage. Take the A625 from the village and drive for five minutes until you reach the first major car park (enticingly named "Surprise View"!) Cross the road and walk back for two to three minutes to find the path leading to the stone circle: for the fort, drive on to the next car park, another five minutes along the road. The A6013 will take you directly back to Sheffield along Ecclesall Road within about 25 minutes. Round the day off with a stop at Champs (for American meals) or at the hugely popular Nonna's (for excellent Italian food); or for smaller meals and refreshments, try Pomona. Photo by: J.P. Oakar