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Discover Places to Go and Things to Do
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Aspen, CO
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Aspen, CO 81611-1431
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When Walter Paepcke and Friedl Pfeifer wandered into Aspen in the mid-1940s, the town was barely more than a green patch on a map. The boom of mining was a distant echo, and what was left of the early town had become a sleepy agricultural and ranching community. That quickly changed when Pfeifer, a veteran of the military ski unit, 10th Mountain Division, transformed the face of  Aspen Mountain (Ajax) into a world-class ski area. In the meantime, Paepcke was conjuring the “Aspen Idea,” a utopic vision that would create a setting for high culture in the Rocky Mountains; a place where great thinkers could congregate, rejuvenate and trade ideas like baseball cards. Paepcke, however, only saw the beginnings of his ambitions take shape (he passed away in the early 1960s). But under Pfeifer's watchful eye, Aspen became a celebrated, albeit quirky, resort town with a brain.
Today, Aspen is not only a bit off center, it is in a world all its own. Tucked away at the southeast end of the Roaring Fork Valley, surrounded by the towering Elk Mountains, Collegiate Peaks and White River National Forest, Aspen even feels far away. Maybe that is why the characters that make up the population are so diverse and interesting. Or maybe it is because of a common love for skiing that you can enter a coffee shop on Hopkins Avenue and hear “Hey, Dude” in just about every accent. Aspen is one of the few places you can see dot.com billionaires and hard-core snowboarders both decked out in the latest baggy and saggy street fashions. It is also where breakfast might bring together miners and ranchers sitting down to a slab of meat, while tree huggers with hefty bank accounts ponder over what to put sprouts on, and the educated-sort try to break down the chemical compounds of an organic muffin. It is likewise with fur coat shoppers at Gucci, while cowboys next door pick out new Stetsons and belt buckles the size of small serving trays. It is a town of anomalous diversity, a town of lofty erudition and extreme sport.
The rich and famous see Aspen as a playground. They flock to the resort, while multitudes of star struck tourists fly in behind them hoping to catch a quick glimpse of a celebrity. But if your star search is running cold you can get a glimpse of celebrity by heading up Aspen Mountain and checking out the shrines to Jerry Garcia, Elvis and Marilyn Monroe. If you cannot find the shrines, just look towards Red Mountain (south) and you can see from a distance where all of the celebrities live. Mammoth mansions litter the mountainside, many of which sit empty a good portion of the year and some are as large as the town of Aspen itself. Perhaps the most famous spread is the Peak House, which sits near the summit of Red Mountain. The house sprawls some 23,000 feet and is worth a tidy $27 million. But if you would rather just rent the house, it will set you back $200,000 per month, or $17,500 per night.
But although the beautiful people propel Aspen's celebrity status, it is the community of locals, and the perfect mix of sport and culture that make the small town worth visiting. Aspen, however, is not without its problems. Commercial development and urban sprawl are issues of constant concern. Traffic congestion stifles the roads during peak seasons. Almost 70 percent of the workforce cannot live within the city limits due to a severe lack of affordable housing. And housing prices hover around two-million dollars a home, many of which are relatively small. But the area is working hard to tackle these problems, while trying to keep the “Aspen Idea” strong, with a viable interaction between the town's dueling personalities as a community and a resort.
A Guide to the Neighborhoods
The town of Aspen consists of three basic areas: a downtown squeezed between two residential neighborhoods, the West End and the East End. But the truth is that on a clear day, you can easily see one end of town from the other—it is that small. Despite its smallness the town offers an amazing diversity of activities ranging from haute couture shopping and fine dining to hiking, biking and skiing.
West End
The West End is a quiet residential nook peppered with authentic Victorian homes. Walking through the streets, with Shadow Mountain looming in the background, you would never know that you were in a ritzy ski town. The locals are neighborly, the dogs are friendly, and the tourists are absent, making you feel as if you might actually belong there. You may even get the urge to dab in some local tongue and throw out a “Good morning neighbor dude, sick po on Ajax, eh? Makes you stoked.” But then again, you do not want to look like a “poseur.”
Along with the residential homes, you will find a good number of the area hotels and condos scattered about the West End, especially on Main Street.
The lower West End is where Walter Paepcke laid a literal foundation to the “Aspen Idea” with the construction of the Aspen Meadows Comference Center and Hotel , which houses the Aspen Institute. This 40-acre spread is also home to the famous Music Tent, the Aspen Center for Physics, the Harris Concert Hall and the Paepcke Auditorium. And if you fancy a bit of Bauhaus architecture, you will see plenty of long horizontal structures scattered about the landscape.
Just east of Aspen Meadows is the Hallam Lake Nature Preserve, home to the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies . This is a great place to spend a few hours relaxing in the summer.
Downtown
Ski Magazine consistently dubs downtown Aspen as the après ski capitol of North America, and it does not take long to see why. The Cooper Avenue, Hyman Avenue and Mill Street Pedestrian malls act as the centerpieces of the area. Each of the tree-lined streets features old Victorian buildings and brick retail units filled with hip shops, eclectic dining and cool local pubs. But the malls are just the beginning. From Main Street to Durant Avenue, the selection of places to eat, sleep, shop, drink, dance, tune your skis, rent a bike and check out art are seemingly endless. The ski slopes of Aspen Mountain serve as the scenic background to downtown.
East End
The Roaring Fork River splits the East End, and there so many trees spread across this neighborhood, that you get the feeling you have stumbled into a residential forest. If you are looking to get away from the hubbub of downtown, the East End streets are a perfect place to walk for peace and quiet. Or, after a long day on the slopes, you might instead want to check out the Aspen Club & Spa .
Wandering Downvalley
Snowmass Village
Although Snowmass Village has only been around since 1968 and is purely a “built from scratch ski resort,” the town has almost 2,000 year round condo dwellers. Waking every morning to the towering peaks of Mt. Daly and Snowmass Peak, and being able to walk out your door to the ski ski slopes is a major draw.
Snowmass (the largest of the four ski mountains) struggled for years to break out of Aspen's shadow and establish its own identity. But eventually the massive resort went its own way. The village became the mountain of choice for summer festivals, including the renowned Jazz Aspen Fest, and the Snowmass Rodeo . A major conference center attracted business gatherings to the resort, and developers, to complement the more than 50 miles of downhill runs, carved out a wealth of cross-country ski routes at the Snowmass Club Cross Country Center , as well as added the Snowmass Club Golf Course within walking distance of the village.
Roaring Fork Valley
When you leave Aspen and head west into the Roaring Fork Valley, you literally step into a time when horses ruled the west and ranching was the way of life. But the cowboys and ranchers are slowly facing the effects of development, as small towns like Basalt become targets of commercialism.
Many visitors to Aspen opt to spend time in the valley, especially in the summer, to get a true feel of the mountains. Plus, fishermen from around the world test their fly fishing skills on the waters of the Frying Pan and Roaring Fork Rivers.
If you venture into towns like Basalt, Carbondale, Old Snowmass and El Jebel, expect to find a low-key, local atmosphere, and most of Aspen's work force. Perhaps the most eccentric area town is Woody Creek. The town is famous for one of its residents, writer, activist and general oddball, Hunter S. Thompson, the infamous author of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. You can spot him on occasion enjoying one of many beers at the Woody Creek Tavern . Or just pick up a local paper and read about all his antics, from accidentally shooting his assistant to fighting against the evils of local mining.
Getting to and Getting Around Aspen
Aspen is about 220 miles west of Denver (a four hour drive on a good day) via Interstate 70 to Glenwood Springs, and Highway 82 south from there takes you to the center of downtown. Many visitors opt to fly into Denver International Airport (DIA), rent a car, and drive up to Aspen. The drive is a bit long, but passes some extraordinary terrain, including the Front Range Mountains, the Gore Range, Battlement Mesa, and Glenwood Canyon. Watch out in the winter though. During bad conditions the four-hour drive can easily turn into eight hours of road terror.
During summer you can save 30 minutes on the drive from Denver by wandering over Independence Pass . The pass is only open during summer and ranks as one of the highest paved roads in North America. The views are stunning, especially during late July when the wildflowers are blooming. If you fear heights, however, you may want to reconsider this route for many of the hairpin turns on the pass are narrow and are bordered by sheer drop-offs.
United Express operates six daily flights to Aspen's Pitkin County Airport (Sardy Field). America West and Northwest Airlines also service Sardy Field.
Aspen is also easily accessible from the Eagle County Airport. Just 70 miles to the east, the airport offers service from a number of major airlines, including United, American, Continental, Northwest, America West and Delta.
Once you arrive in Aspen, you can ditch your car at the hotel and forget about it. Aspen is so small it is easy to get around on foot. Plus, the traffic and parking problems only lend for headaches and frustration. If you need to head over to another mountain, just hop on a free shuttle, or take the RFTA (Roaring Fork Transit Authority) bus. If you are in downtown Aspen, just head over to the Rubey Park Transportation Center and catch a ride anywhere in the valley. Fares range from $3 to $6 to head Downvalley. If you just need to get across town, the shuttle service is free.
During the summer bring your bike along or rent one at a local shop. Biking is by far the best way to get around town. Plus, it is the local's preferred method of transportation. From downtown, you have easy access to Independence Pass (a severe climb, but it is paved), Snowmass Village, and even the Maroon Bells .
Tags:
architecture, resort, ski, skiing, sports
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By NorthAmericanAdventures
5 days
Grab your friends, catch a plane, & head to one of the premiere skiing areas in the US. Aspen, Colorado is pretty much right in the middle of the USA, so if you have friends who are going to an East Coast college as well as those on the West Coast, this is a good meeting place in between!
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By Cynthiadar777
6 days
This is a nice trip featuring caves, ghost towns, & fossils. For those who want to see the natural wonders as well as "ancient" civilizations. A great trip to take with kids & teenagers.
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8 people reviewed Aspen
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Top
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at 6:50PM October 8, 2008
best ski resort ever! just a little scary landing in the airport, well one runway strip, in between two huge mountains. great skiing, awesome food, good shopping, expensive....NOW I LIVE 25 minutes AWAY FROM HERE!!!!!
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at 7:17AM May 29, 2008
My brother lives here - ASpen is AWESOME
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at 2:40PM April 24, 2009
It was a great honeymoon! Perfect skiing conditions; highly cultured area - fine dining and art exhibits/stores are commonplace. Once in, it is enjoyable and easy to walk anywhere in town. If you go and rent a car, be sure to have all-wheel-drive as there are constant snowstorms during ski season.
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at 4:30PM August 10, 2008
Same as for Vail!
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at 12:04PM July 3, 2008
Fun place to hangout and go skiing and during the warmer months...it's still a great place.
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at 12:20PM July 2, 2008
skiing,food,lodging,romantic
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at 11:03AM May 29, 2008
I'm not big on the star factor at this ski town. But, it was nice.
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at 6:09PM May 28, 2008
The Highlands, Aspen Mountain & Snowmass are great slopes. Buttermilk is for beginners. Great restaurants. X-Games are a blast.
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